SACW | 7 June 2005
sacw
aiindex at mnet.fr
Mon Jun 6 20:29:16 CDT 2005
South Asia Citizens Wire | 7 June, 2005
[Interruption Notice: There will be no SACW
dispatches between the period 8 - 12 may 2005 ]
[1] Nukes' seventh anniversary - South Asia's misfortunes (M B Naqvi)
[2] Pakistan: Musharraf is losing his grip (Ahmed Rashid)
[3] Things Sufi - the informal sector of faith
- A Sufi resurgence in Punjab (Annie Zaidi)
- Kashmir searches for its lost Sufi music (Sheikh Mushtaq)
[4] Pakistan-India Peoples' Forum for Peace and
Democracy Convention (Pune, June 10 to June 12)
[5] Book Review: The Road to 'Animal Farm,' Through Burma (William Grimes)
______
[1]
The News International
June 6, 2005
Nukes' seventh anniversary-IV
South Asia's misfortunes
M B Naqvi
South Asia's future has been jeopardized by the
Indian and Pakistani nukes, politically and
possibly physically, depending upon whether there
will be a nuclear war between the two. India and
Pakistan's neighbours have no option but to
helplessly wait for what will happen. Nepal,
Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Maldives and Bhutan resent
being adversely affected whether there is a war
or not.
The misfortunes non-nuclear countries continue to
face, even if there is no war, have to do with
the function of mistrust between India and
Pakistan. The current deluge of protocol goodwill
and fomenting a feel good factor by the two
governments -- under American prodding -- has not
removed their mistrust. Which South Asian country
can ignore it? Their worry is reasonable.
Pakistani nuclear missiles are ready to be fired
at Indian targets. If they are fired, a few
cities in India will be incinerated. And it will
take only a few minutes to destroy Pakistan if
the Indian nukes are fired in this direction.
Neither side will have the time for defensives
measures. During the east-west cold war, there
were 27 minutes available for decisions. Both
sides could read blips on their radars as
missiles or geese or some debris. In South Asia,
a missile's flying time to its target is 3 to 5
minutes. No government can react in this
timeframe and the scope for misunderstanding,
wrong calculations and unauthorized launches by
power-hungry groups or terrorists in both
countries cannot be ignored.
Even if there is no war between the two
adversaries and the present no-peace-no-war
situation continues, South Asians' future remains
compromised -- because the Indo-Pakistan mistrust
pre-empts optimal regional cooperation. The fact
is India and Pakistan have to remain at
hair-trigger alert. And if war does break out,
some radioactivity is bound to fall on
neighbours, who will suffer for no fault of their
own. For non-nuclear South Asians, both sets of
nukes are a misfortune, requiring efforts to
destroy them.
Some argue that EU is an example of regional
cooperation and integration to follow. Two EU
members are nuclear powers, France and Britain.
What is the rationale for the French and British
nukes? Apart from national grandeur or the desire
to sit at the high table, the French and the
British nukes are a strategic insurance policy
against the resurrection of German power. The
Anglo-French nukes only make sense if Germany's
aggressive instincts are assumed a priori.
Modern Germany accepts this Anglo-French
apprehension and has chosen against ever becoming
a nationalist or isolationist power. It has
consciously anchored its revival in European
entity -- away from pan-Germanic ideas that led
to three aggressions uptil 1939. Germany is happy
to stay non-nuclear; Germans see their future in
peace and look upon French and British nukes with
part-unconcern and part-curiosity. So the EU
example clearly does not apply to South Asia.
Here, unlike Europe, the two nuclear powers look
upon each other as bitter adversaries. About
India there may still be a few illusions that
once it becomes a world power with American
support: it may still promote peace in Asia by
cultivating Russia, China and other Central
Asians simultaneously. Insofar as Pakistan is
concerned, it has yoked itself irretrievably to
the USA. It will do what America wants, without
ifs and buts. Since both countries listen to the
USA with respect, they will be able to put in
place many more confidence building measures
(CBMs), while the main disputes may remain
unresolved. Such a situation is fundamentally
unstable: some public relations-oriented cultural
exchanges may coexist with no basic change of
orientation.
Other South Asians need to exhibit their
preference for peace: one that promotes
rapprochement between India and Pakistan, based
on a resolution of disputes -- Kashmir, nukes and
dams. Without resolving disputes, the resumption
of hostile propaganda is just waiting to happen.
Both are capable of resuming confrontation. India
and Pakistan being differently oriented, how can
South Asians read the deepening of détente by
CBMs as making Pakistan and India lasting
friends? Why does a true Indo-Pakistan
rapprochement look difficult? Obviously what
stands in the way, are serious disputes.
This exposes the current peace process as
shallow. Why? Because it leaves out basic and
highly emotional disputes. Thus fears of a
possible war are not unwarranted in the rest of
South Asia. It is for the Indians and Pakistanis
to prove that there would be no war. They have to
show this by the success of their Peace Process.
And while one could assert that Kashmir is likely
to be left aside, and eventually disregarded,
this will not happen to the nukes. They cannot be
ignored. The very presence of nukes in India is
an incentive to Pakistan to remain nuclear. If
Pakistan remains nuclear, India's nuclear
disarmament is impossible. Both also want to
utilise nukes for their advancement: one wants
permanent membership of the UNSC and the other
wants to be a leader of Islamic countries.
The question of questions is what sort of Peace
Process will, or can, succeed between India and
Pakistan? There are forces in both societies that
favour a lasting peace. Both governments have
recognised popular pressures for peace. Both have
called this peace process irreversible. But it is
not, though it should be made so. Hitherto both
bureaucracies have kept the peace process under
strict control. Not one step has been taken that
can enable popular aspirations and yearnings to
reduce that control. The Establishments running
both states refuse to permit socio-economic
realities free play. The Establishments
importantly include local versions of
industrial-military complexes that require
hostility between India and Pakistan.
The two contending forces are the entrenched
establishments in both countries and common
popular yearnings to be friends and ensuring
peace and cooperation between the two countries.
Which will succeed and when? Possibly, the
popular sentiments will someday overwhelm the two
establishments to make up and do the right thing
about their nukes.
The democratic and peace lobby has to clear the
road to nuclear disarmament to make South Asia a
Nuclear Weapons Free Zone. But when will popular
forces overwhelm the establishments? It is not
likely to be soon. The peace process is rather
unsteady, due to entrenched vested interests in
both countries. So far the two bureaucracies have
had the last laugh; the visa regime is still
restricted. Real concessions continue to elude us.
South Asians do not deserve this Democle's sword
over their heads. They are peace loving and
cannot be accused of doing anything to disturb
international peace. If there is an
India-Pakistan war, it is sure to affect them
adversely, as well as their ecology and climate,
including radioactive rains and other long term
consequences.
Even the present no-war-no-peace between India
and Pakistan is adversely affecting South Asians
-- because so long as India-Pakistan
confrontation lasts, there will be no real
regional cooperation and eventual integration.
South Asians need regional grids of
communications, power, oil and gas, weather
forecasting, investments and free trade, more
cultural exchanges, regional arrangements to
watch over human rights violations and maybe
regional courts to enforce human rights and so
forth. Regarding the starry-eyed idealism of
today, power brokers in India and Pakistan will
say is unrealistic. The Establishments have to
preserve conditions in which they enjoy large
budgets, respect and autonomy. That promises
advancement and riches to powerbrokers. Other
South Asians must get involved and help the
embattled peace lobbies of Pakistan and India in
the common cause of peace and progress for the
sake of their people.
_______
[2]
International Herald Tribune
June 2, 2005
MUSHARRAF IS LOSING HIS GRIP
by Ahmed Rashid
LAHORE, Pakistan When Pakistan
announced the arrest of a senior Al Qaeda
operative last month, it was another feather in
the cap of President Pervez Musharraf, with
President George W. Bush describing the capture
as "a critical victory in the war on terror."
Musharraf's peace overtures toward India and
criticism of Islamic extremism have also won high
praise abroad, especially in Washington, which in
March awarded him with a supply of F-16 fighter
jets. But Musharraf's growing international
standing is at odds with his faltering position
at home.
His government is unraveling under the twin
pressures of Islamic fundamentalists whom he
refuses to resist and political opponents whom he
harasses and jails. In April, thousands of
members of the Pakistan People's Party were
arrested to prevent big rallies for one of the
party's leaders, Asif Ali Zardari. The Pakistan
People's Party has been effectively sidelined
since Musharraf took over in a military coup in
1999. Zardari - here for a visit from Dubai,
where he lives in exile with his wife, former
Prime Minister Benazir Bhutto - says he wants to
test Musharraf's promises to restore genuine
democracy.
The crackdown on the party is in sharp contrast
to the extent to which the government has bowed
to the demands of a coalition of six Islamic
fundamentalist parties, even though many of these
same fundamentalists consider Musharraf too
secular and demand his resignation. The
government has recently accepted the
fundamentalists' demands that it stop men and
women from running marathons together, and that
it delay reform of the Islamic schools called
madrassas, as well as efforts to amend laws on
blasphemy and to curb honor killings.
Meanwhile, the civilian government brought to
power by the military in 2002 after what many
international monitors considered to be a rigged
election has failed to deliver what Musharraf
desired - a coherent and effective civilian
facade for the military, which actually runs the
country. Instead, the ruling party, the Pakistan
Muslim League, is riven by factionalism, and
Parliament is often forced to suspend business
because it lacks a quorum.
Shaukat Aziz, the third prime minister since
2002, is a former finance minister who has no
political experience and is too beholden to the
army to be an effective political leader.
Challenged by its own ineptitude and by those
parties demanding democracy, the Muslim League
finds it convenient to pander to the
fundamentalists, who are strong enough to keep
the democrats at bay.
Musharraf's problems are compounded by
insurgencies in the provinces. In Baluchistan,
separatists are demanding greater autonomy and
control over their natural resources. For the
past three months the country's largest gas
fields have been besieged by the separatists.
In North-West Frontier Province, a neo-Taliban
resistance against the army continues with the
return of Afghan and Pakistani Taliban who have
been recently trained in Iraq. In the southern
province of Sind there is growing alienation
because of interethnic strife, increased
criminality and corruption and tensions between
the majority Sindhis and the central government.
The only answer to the domestic problems now
tearing the country apart is more democracy - in
particular a free and fair election in which the
political elements that have been disenfranchised
since 1999 get a political stake in determining
the country's future. The next few months will be
crunch time for the army, the Americans, the
mullahs and the political parties. All the major
players know that the present political situation
under Musharraf is unsustainable.
It is time that the world sat up and took notice
of events in Pakistan, because with 160 million
people, nuclear weapons and a myriad of Islamic
extremist groups still operating openly, Pakistan
remains critical to regional and global stability.
(Ahmed Rashid is the author of
''Taliban'' and, most recently, ''Jihad: The Rise
of Militant Islam in Central Asia.'')
_______
[3]
Frontline
June 03, 2005
A SUFI RESURGENCE
Annie Zaidi
in Jalandhar
The sudden spurt of interest in all things Sufi
in Punjab is seen not merely as an assertion of
marginalised people but also as a recognition of
Sufism's secular ethos.
Bibi Channi Shah, the master at the Sufi Pind in
Hoshiarpur, was named by her guru as his
successor..
IT is only when you visit the region called Doab
in Punjab that you begin to understand Sufism and
its impact on a country as diverse as India. This
is the land where `cultural confluence' is a
reality as solid as the Sufi tombs dotting the
rural landscape. Images and symbols are
seamlessly interwoven without any obvious sign of
conflict.
It is this improbable magic of a unique
socio-cultural tradition and the complex
political situation that makes this possible that
has been captured in Ajay Bhardwaj's documentary
film Kitte Mil ve Mahi (Where the Twain Meet).
Indeed, the twain do seem to meet.
There are temple bells hanging in one dargah. In
another, the keeper of the shrine raises his
hands in Islamic prayer - hands that are tattooed
with the `Om' symbol.
The Sufi lineage in Punjab cuts across religions,
for it does not matter what caste or religion one
is born into. Once blessed by the Guru, a
disciple takes on the name of the Guru, as well
as his place, known as the gaddi (seat).
And yet, it was injustice and intolerance that
first fuelled Sufism, and is now, perhaps,
leading to its resurgence.
The history of Sufism is linked inextricably to
Dalits and other marginalised sections of society.
Bhardwaj is aware that his film is not about the
Sufi tradition alone. "The trigger was the
understanding of Punjabi history in the past
century. We think of three major milestones -
Partition, the Green Revolution, and 1984. But
parallel alternative realities have been ignored.
The Dalit reality, the Sufi reality, has been
made invisible. And as you will see in the film,
there are moments when some Dalits refuse to talk
about their own oppression. Part of the reality
of marginalisation is that they stay silent.
Despite all our talk of empowerment and reform
laws, they fear too many repercussions. Two years
ago, Talhan was the scene of a major
confrontation between Dalits and Jats, and this
was over the issue of management of a shrine. The
film is set in the same cultural landscape."
Baba Bhagat Singh Bilkha believes that anyone who
is against caste and for humanity is a Sufi.
The socio-cultural traditions are significant in
a State such as Punjab, where the percentage of
Dalits in the State's population (according to
the 1991 Census) is 28.31 per cent, as compared
to 16.48 per cent for the average in India.
One sees how powerful a Sufi symbol can be when
one meets Najjar Shah, the caretaker of the
shrine of Baba Choor Shah in Jalandhar.
Najjar Shah, who is 81 years old, is not only the
current guru, but also a cobbler. He sits outside
the dargah and mends shoes for a living. He said:
"We trace our lineage from Ravidas Maharaj, who
was also a Balmiki and a cobbler. I used to work
as a mason on construction sites. But when I
became a devotee of Baba Choor Shah, he told me I
ought to become a cobbler. If Ravidas did not
feel any shame, why should I?"
Bhardwaj explained: "It is a powerful statement.
He won't collect money, not even for the urs (the
annual fair), because begging is not part of Sufi
tradition. By turning into a cobbler, he is
affirming his Chamaar identity."
Ravidas, Kabir, Brahmdass and a host of other
Sufi saints in Punjab were from the oppressed
castes and stood for their own rights. This
tradition continues; for example, at the site of
Brahmdass' tomb, his successor is running an
English medium school for Dalits. A powerful
statement is also made by Bibi Channi Shah, the
current murshid (master/guru) at Sufi Pind in
Hoshiarpur. She traces her lineage to Brahmdass
and Pritamdass. She recalls that her guru had
once told her he would hang her up on the highest
hook. "I had no clue that this is what he meant,
that he would name me his successor."
The fact that a woman was named a Sufi saint's
successor was a rare event, and the aura of power
and equality around Bibi Channi Shah is evident,
as she smokes a hookah, keeps hunter-dogs as pets
and blesses lakhs of devotees each year.
Bhagat Singh Bilkha, now 98 years old, president
of the Deshbhakt Yaadgaar Committee and formerly
a member of the Ghadar party, believes that
anyone who is against caste and for humanity is a
Sufi. "In my own village, we have a mazaar called
Miyan ka Dera. The gaddi went to Rang Shah, who
was Muslim, and to Natha Singh, a Sikh, and to
Shiv Kumar, a Hindu. Sufism is rooted in
secularism."
He quotes an Urdu couplet to explain: "Aye Ishq
kahin le chal, ye dair-o-haram chore,
in dono makaano mein jhagdaa nazar aata hai
(Come, love, let us turn away from both temple
and mosque; between these two houses, there is an
on-going feud). Bulle Shah, Baba Fareed, Shah
Hussain, Namdev, Baba Nanak, Kabir - all Sufis.
This legacy is being destroyed, unfortunately.
Powerful people are misusing spirituality by
dragging people away from their true faith."
In prayer outside a dargah.
The impact of Sufism in Punjab, as it exists now,
is highly debated. Lal Singh `Dil', a noted
writer, said: "Sufism doesn't solve anything. It
favours Dalits, though, because of their need for
a place of refuge." He added: "Sufism can be
defined as a critique of society. That was the
root. Although Sufi songs are nice to bond over,
they must not be de-contextualised. The logic of
this Sufi tradition lies in non-Brahmanical
culture, and not in secularism."
Punjabi journalist and writer Desraj Kali adds a
twist to the tale. "These places are the scene of
cultural-literary marginalisation. Gurdwaras used
to be like community centres, but no longer.
After the Green Revolution, land-value went up.
Community land was captured."
This is most in evidence in Noor Mahal, in
Jalandhar district, where a dargah dedicated to
Shah Fateh Ali Shah was demolished. The tomb was
destroyed and taken over by a group that claimed
it was built on the site of a gurdwara. Now, the
board outside proclaims it as the site of a
gurdwara again, and some of the land has been let
out to shopkeepers and is being used for
commercial purposes. There is only a mattress,
where the tomb used to be, but devotees continue
to visit the place. The irony is that according
to popular belief, this site was given to Shah
Fateh Ali Shah, known as one of the three roshni
ke fakir, by the fifth Sikh Guru Arjan Singh.
Kali added: "Now, there is discrimination from
Sikh religious leaders too. There are reports of
Dalit sarpanches being killed or beaten up.
Sometimes people will not allow Dalits to go into
the fields to relieve themselves."
In the given situation, the return to the
non-Brahmanical Sufi tradition comes as no
surprise. Kali himself is a devotee and his
father took the guru-diksha from Pritamdass,
whose lineage is traced back to Baba Fareed, one
of the oldest saints. Kali said: "At first it was
only my father. Now my elder brother and my
cousins and nephews have become Bibi Channi
Shah's chelas (disciples). There are often 200
disciple families in a single Sufi village."
The new wave of Sufi resurgence has a lot to do
with renewed cultural interest in the Sufi
tradition of song and music.
A devotee we met at Phillaur village also agrees
that the ranks of Sufi devotees are swelling.
Prem Singh, a mason, regularly visits the shrine
at Phillaur. "It is a family tradition but it is
much bigger now. There are at least one lakh
visitors to the urs, even in Phillaur village.
And the urs used to be a day-long affair; now it
goes on for three days."
The new wave also owes its resurgence to renewed
cultural interest in the Sufi tradition of song
and music. Satish Gulati, who owns Chetna
Publications in Ludhiana, vouches for it. "I have
a new reprint of Bulle Shah's books and posters
of all the old Sufi saints. I expect each edition
to sell out within the year. Another factor is
that people are sick of remixes and repetitive
entertainment. They are buying, reading and
listening to Sufi kalaams (poems/songs). We plan
to bring out the collected works and histories of
Sultan Bahu, Shah Hussain, Baba Fareed and so on."
The dissenting voice is that of Dr. Seva Singh, a
retired Professor, who held the Kabir Chair at
Guru Nanak University. Although he agrees that
Sufism is crucial because it gave India a new
ethical code, something that had not happened on
the subcontinent since Gautam Buddha's era, he
also believes that this new resurgence is a false
one.
"The new wave is not of Sufism. Whenever there is
an economic crunch, when there is frustration and
insecurity and apoliticisation, people turn to
spiritualism. Now, people are deprived of
ideology. There are only rough, caste-based power
equations. People may have more money but they
have no mooring and are afraid to lose the little
they have gained. They turn to mysticism or to
religion, because they need some kind of faith."
He points out that the crowds might be swelling
at Sufi dargahs but it is equally true of Kumbh
Melas, mosques and gurdwaras. "There is no Sufi
thought there, because people like Bulle Shah
were against all kinds of institutionalised
faith."
Seva Singh is also suspicious of this new
resurgence in that it seems only to encourage
those philosophies that will strengthen religious
institutions. "Sufis lived with truth and
self-respect. They broke free from the shackles
of property. Nowadays, people use the folk songs
of Bulle Shah and Kabir but ignore their
criticism of priests, or Baba Fareed's criticism
of property laws. They romanticise Sufism and
indulge in it like nostalgia. But they refuse to
let it become an agent of change. This amounts to
cultural appropriation."
o o o o
Dawn
June 3, 2005
KASHMIR SEARCHES FOR ITS LOST SUFI MUSIC
By Sheikh Mushtaq
KRALPORA (India): Amid the daily roar of gunfire
and grenades, there's something new in Kashmiri
villages these days: music classes. A dozen
teenagers, cradling ancient Kashmiri string
instruments and notebooks listen in rapt
attention to teacher Mohammad Yaqoob speak about
Sufyana Mosaqi, Kashmir's classical music.
"It is a Himalayan task to revive Sufyana Mosaqi,
but when I listen to these young girls and boys
singing haunting melodies, I see a ray of hope,"
says 45-year-old Yaqoob. "In this kind of a
situation, it is very difficult to motivate
youngsters to learn this music. But I will keep
trying."
The strains of the 500-year-old musical form,
drawn from the rituals and teachings of the Sufis
or Muslim mystics, have been drowned in the
16-year separatist conflict in one of the world's
most beautiful regions claimed by both India and
Pakistan. Teachers fled the region because of the
violence and the rise of Islamic fundamentalism
which sought to restrict Kashmiris from pursuing
art and replace its gentle Sufi traditions.
But a few Kashmiri musicologists are now trying
to revive the tradition as they hold classes
under the shadow of the gun, look for surviving
artists in far flung villages and try to recover
lost pieces of music. Experts say that Sufyana
Mosaqi, a style of choral music performed by five
to ten musicians, has already lost 130 out of the
180 "ragas" or melodies referred to in ancient
scripts.
A Kashmiri musicologist, Sheikh Abdul Aziz, has
preserved 42 melodies by notating them over the
past 15 years in a four-volume monumental book
"Kashur Sargam" or Kashmiri music. The fourth
volume is under publication.
"The tradition of verbally passing down ragas
from generation to generation also contributed to
the disaster besides the ongoing militancy," said
75-year-old Aziz, the only contemporary theorist
of Kashmiri music.
"I am weak now. I can't go looking for more ragas
and the situation is not good." Aziz, lying in
bed in his house in Srinagar said he travelled to
remote villages and towns of Kashmir, met old
musicians, music lovers and collected Sufyana
ragas for his project.
Also lost is the once-celebrated Hafiza dance
associated with the Sufyana Mosaqi. A solo female
dance, the Hafiza expresses the meaning of poems
sung by musicians through delicate postures and
gliding steps similar to the Kathak dance
tradition in northern India.
The popular Hafiza dance was performed by
Kashmiri women to the accompaniment of Sufyana
Kalam or spiritual poetry, but musicians say
Hafizas or female dancers disappeared from the
scene in the 1940s after some were linked with
prostitution.
GENTLE WAY OF LIFE: Sufism is a gentle Muslim way
of life preached by Sufi saints in Kashmir, which
was known for its scenic beauty, Sufi poets and
religious tolerance before the rebellion broke
out in late 1989 in which more than 45,000 people
have died.
Sufi music and its mystic dance were brought to
the idyllic Himalayan valley from Central Asia in
the 15th century. Many musicians still sing
Persian poems. Some instruments also face
extinction.
The dhokra, an antique Kashmiri drum, has been
replaced by the Indian tabla instrument. Very few
players are left to string the Saz-e-Kashmir, a
violin-like instrument.
The other instruments used for performing Sufyana
are the stringed santoor and Kashmiri sitar.
Ironically while Sufi music is struggling for
survival in Kashmir, its popularity is growing in
elsewhere in India. -
_______
[4]
Pune Newsline
June 04, 2005
250 delegates for Indo-Pak meet in city on June 10
Pak ex-finance minister, Admiral L Ramdas (retd)
to be present for 3-day conclave
Express News Service
Pune, June 3: FORMER finance minister of
Pakistan and founder-member of Pakistan People's
Party (PPP) Dr Mubashar Hassan will be in the
city to participate in the national-level
convention of Pakistan-India Peoples' Forum for
Peace and Democracy (PIPFPD) from June 10 to June
12.
The fifth national convention will be attended by
250 delegates from all over the country.
Former chief of naval staff Admiral L Ramdas will also be present.
The delegates will discuss issues related to the
two countries and take stock of the current
relations, informed Jatin Desai, a national
committee member of PIPFD.
An endeavour of citizens from both sides of the
border, the meet has been organised after a
bi-lateral convention held in New Delhi this
February.
According to Desai, citizens are in favor of
strengthening people-to-people interaction, a
significant factor in the thawing of diplomatic
relations between the countries.
The State-level meeting of PIPFD will be held on
June 10, followed by a public discussion of the
ongoing peace process between India and Pakistan.
On June 11, at the national convention, the
proceedings of the bilateral meet held in
February will be discussed.
On June 12, a public meeting to discuss various
issues governing the relations between the two
countries has been scheduled in Symbiosis
Vishwabhavan at 6 pm which will be graced by
Admiral Ramdas.
The meeting will be followed by a play Nakab
written by Pakistani playwright Rafi Pir and
based on the Hiroshima tragedy.
_______
[5]
Book Review
New York Times
June 7, 2005
Books of The Times | 'Finding George Orwell in Burma'
The Road to 'Animal Farm,' Through Burma
By William Grimes
Fresh out of Eton, George Orwell spent five years
in Burma as a policeman in the colonial service.
He left in 1927, fed up with "the dirty work of
Empire," but the country never quite left him. It
provided the material for the novel "Burmese
Days" and one of his most famous essays,
"Shooting an Elephant." In his final days, as he
lay dying of tuberculosis, he sketched out a
novella, "A Smoking Room Story," about a young
Englishman changed forever by his experiences in
colonial Burma.
FINDING GEORGE ORWELL IN BURMA
By Emma Larkin
294 pages. The Penguin Press. $22.95.
Emma Larkin pursues the young Eric Blair (the
pseudonym would come later) all over Burma in
"Finding George Orwell in Burma," revisiting the
places where he lived and worked to reimagine the
experiences that helped shape his political
outlook and his writing. Her mournful,
meditative, appealingly idiosyncratic book is a
hybrid, an exercise in literary detection but
also a political travelogue that uses Burma to
explain Orwell, and Orwell - especially the
Orwell of "Animal Farm" and "Nineteen
Eighty-Four" - to explain the miseries of
present-day Myanmar (as it is now known).
"Burmese Days" is set in Katha, in the northern
part of the country, but it took Orwell several
years to get there. He began his tour of duty in
Mandalay, at the Police Training School, and then
drew the short straw. Just 19 years old, he was
posted to the delta region of lower Burma, an
area renowned, Ms. Larkin writes, for having "the
largest, liveliest mosquitoes in the Empire."
Britons who had spent time in the delta, it was
said, were easy to spot because of their habit of
darting into a room and quickly slamming the door
shut behind them, still pursued by phantom
insects.
Orwell later dismissed his time in Burma as "five
boring years within the sound of bugles." In
fact, he landed right in the middle of a fearsome
crime wave. Roving gangs bent on robbery, mayhem
and murder had turned Burma into "the most
violent corner of the Indian Empire." It was
Orwell's job to gather intelligence and, sailing
up the delta's canals, track down criminals. The
fine-meshed net of British surveillance, and its
attendant bureaucracy, Ms. Larkin theorizes,
proved invaluable to Orwell when it came time to
write "Nineteen Eighty-Four." So did his
overpowering sense of isolation, as he labored
for a system he came to loathe.
In Orwell's time, Burma was a prosperous country.
Today, under a tenacious dictatorship that has
lasted more than 40 years, Myanmar has the lowest
income in Southeast Asia and ranks as one of
least-developed countries in the world. With no
external enemies, it supports an army nearly as
large as that of the United States. A Stasi-style
system of secret police and citizen informers
closely monitors the population.
All-embracing censorship laws extend to
"incorrect ideas," "opinions which do not accord
with the times" and statements that, although
factually accurate, are "unsuitable because of
the time or the circumstances of their writing."
The ruling party of this militaristic,
underdeveloped nation has adopted a satisfyingly
Orwellian name: the State Peace and Development
Council.
The only safe topics for public discussion are
things like the lottery, the weather and
football. Yet in her travels, over endless cups
of tea, Ms. Larkin elicits the hushed testimony
of frightened citizens desperate for breathing
room. Some simply want to try out their English,
like the would-be hipster who thinks that "see
you later, alligator" is up-to-date American
slang. An elderly Anglo-Burmese woman, left
stranded by the end of colonial rule, reminisces
about the good old days as she fondles her last
piece of English china.
Others pour out their hearts. And still others
distill their anguish into a single bitter
remark. "We Burmese people are totally content,"
one man tells Ms. Larkin. "Do you know why?
Because we have nothing left. We have been
squeezed and squeezed and squeezed until there is
nothing left."
Ms. Larkin, in reading Orwell's two political
novels as sequels to "Burmese Days," is not being
eccentric, not in Myanmar. When the BBC's Burmese
service broadcast a radio dramatization of
"Animal Farm" a few years ago, listeners talked
about it for weeks. For them, Orwell's parable
clearly described Myanmar's plight. The only
matter of debate was which animals represented
which real-life figures.
As Ms. Larkin makes her way across the country,
her movements are tracked, sometimes blocked, by
the police, military personnel, bureaucrats,
spies, informers and ordinary citizens instructed
to report on any encounters with foreigners. When
registering at a guest house she must fill out
forms to be sent to nine separate departments.
Shopping at a local market, a police informer
dogs her heels, asking, over and over, who she
is, where she is going and what she is trying to
find out. She has changed the names of most of
the Burmese she talked to and, lest she be barred
from returning to Myanmar, has published this
book under a pseudonym.
Ms. Larkin eventually makes her way to Katha, to
which, she suggests, Orwell might have been
posted as punishment for shooting that elephant,
a highly valuable asset for its owner. The Katha
Tennis Club, centerpiece of "Burmese Days," still
stands. The club building is now a government
cooperative. The tennis court, oddly enough,
remains intact, complete with umpire chairs and
night-time floodlights. For Orwell, the club
symbolized all the injustice of the empire.
The empire has disappeared, but not the
injustice. A Burmese friend of Ms. Larkin's, old
enough to have lived through both systems, tells
her, "The British may have sucked our blood, but
these Burmese generals are biting us to the bone!"
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
Buzz on the perils of fundamentalist politics, on
matters of peace and democratisation in South
Asia. SACW is an independent & non-profit
citizens wire service run since 1998 by South
Asia Citizens Web: www.sacw.net/
SACW archive is available at: bridget.jatol.com/pipermail/sacw_insaf.net/
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